Kanga is Kiswahili for guinea fowl. It is also a rectangle of cloth worn
in East and Southern Africa. The Masai wear kangas as do women and a few men in
towns, cities and villages from Nairobi to Dar es Salaam wherever Kiswahili is
spoken. Kanga cloth is printed with text
and images that tell you of the political, social, emotional affiliations of
the wearer.
Originally a kanga would be fashioned in black or red cloth punctuated
with a design of off white or black contrasts. The predominant pattern was a
collection of light spots on a dark ground reminiscent of the feathered back of
a guinea fowl. In the first display case to the left as you enter room 91 of
the British Museum, Kangas from Kenya bear the image of Barack Obama – Kenya’s
most famous son, and another of Michael Jackson. Others reveal affiliations to
national parties or local politicians.
The kanga has always been made from cotton with the images and
inscriptions rendered by hand block printing. The production of Africa’s biggest local textile
industry has been outsourced for decades now to India, the most famous
designers originating from Gujarat.
In the final display case, an immaculate blue dress, perfect and
timeless in its pristine cotton print clothes a wooden model. The full pleated
skirt reveals a horizontal pattern repeat bearing the portrait of Albertina
Sisulu, MaSisulu, wife of ANC leader Walter. The dress with its blue bodice,
white starched collar, three quarter length French sleeves, pleated dirndl
skirt, stands tall over the exhibition as a statue in homage to the
extraordinary woman who face encircles the wearer. The exhibition is a
testament to how culture, politics, admiration and inspiration are woven into
the fabric we wear against our skin.
The exhibition is accompanied by a BM publication written by art
historian and Museum curator Chris Spring, author of a number of important
texts on contemporary African visual arts, who led the research project
underpinning this exhibition.
The author visited ‘African Textiles Today: social fabric of the east
and south’ : a temporary exhibition of the Kanga running from Valentine’s day
to 21 April 2013 in room 91 of the British Museum in central London, on Sunday
24 March 2013.
Prof Claire H Griffiths, University of Chester
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